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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

V S'^d^O — 
.... Copyright Nc 

Shelf..S_.e..-!V 



'T 'V S^d-0 — 
Chap... Copyright No 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



^ 



MARGARET BLAIR 



SYSTEM 



..OF.. 



Garment Drafting. 



USED IN 

SCHOOL FOR GIRLS, AGRICULTURAL DEPARTMENT OF STATE 

UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA, 

. AND. 

JAMES INDUSTRIAL TRAINING INSTITUTE, 

MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 






COPYRIGHTED 



1897: 

H. L. COLLINS COMPANY, 
ST. PAUL, MINN. 



A 



Entered according to Act of Congress in tbe year 1897, 

by Margaret Blair, in the Office of the Librarian 

of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



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INDEX 

Page 

System of grading 8 

Implements Used in Cutting and Making Gar- 
ments 9 

Instructions for Taking Measures 11 

Sleeve Measurements 12 

Child's Drawers 15 

Child's Mght Gown 16 

Child's Apron 20 

Child's Waist and Sleeve 24 

Drawers 31 

Under Skirt . 34 

Mght Gown 37 

Chemise 40 

Corset Cover 44 

Shirt Waist 50 

Plain Waist 57 

Sleeves - 63 

The French Bias Dart 66 

The Seamless Waist 73 

Princess Dress 74 

Jacket 78 

Dress Skirt 83 

Boy's Sailor Waist and Collar 89 

Boy's Sleeve 93 

Boys's Pants 93 



INTRODUCTION. 

In submitting to the public the result of years of 
labor and experience, I feel that I am responding 
to a genuine need and filling a place that has long 
been vacant or at best but inadequately filled by 
the use of patterns. My system is primarily for 
use in drafting underclothing, aprons and child- 
ren's dresses, but it can also be used with the best 
of results in dressmaking. This system is so sim- 
ple that it can be taught to children, and therefore 
might, without difficulty, be used in the public 
schools. 

Beauty in personal appearance is often almost 
destroyed by the lack of knowledge how not to 
spoil the beautiful gift of nature. This knowl- 
edge can be best inculcated in the children, and a 
wonderful change would soon be noticed in the 
appearance of young women, if in the public 
schools the little girls were taught what is proper 
to wear and how to make their clothing. The art 
of sewing really antedates history, for the first 
clothing of man, the skins of animals, were rough- 
ly sewn together, yet it has never, until recently, 
been developed scientifically along utilitarian 
lines. 

As an art, sewing has long been popular and the 
knowledge of making tapestries, embroideries and 
other beautiful needlework has, for centuries, 



been thought much of, but the more useful art of 
making garments and making them beautifully 
has been allowed to lie unused. The problem of 
putting this art on a scientific basis and making 
of it a part of the education^of women is now being 
solved. 

A hundred years ago our great-great-grand- 
mothers were employing nearly all of their time- 
not only in making garments to wear — but in 
spinning and w^eaving the cloth of which they 
were made, and in addition to this, all of the 
table linen, bed linen and towels must be manu- 
factured by the maidens' own hands. No doubt 
this constant employment became at times irk- 
some, but fingers were deft and the end toward 
which she was striving was most alluring, name- 
ly, a well-filled linen chest and a large stock of 
clothing, which we know the young matron of 
1797 had in store. 

And she was proudly conscious that everything 
was perfect of its kind, for every thread had been 
woven and every stitch taken by her own indus- 
trious fingers. Has there ever been a woman, I 
wonder, who has not felt the deepest pride in her 
own handiwork, if she is so fortunate as to know 
how to use her hands? These are her best ser- 
vants, but, like all servants, they must be trained 
or they can not obey the dictates of her mind. 

In order to reach the state of cultured woman^ 
hood toward which we all aspire we must study 
something besides literature and the arts — we 
must study civilized dressing. A bird sings its 
sweetest notes after its morning, bath is taken and 
its feathers plumed; so will we all do better any- 
thing we undertake if we know how to dress well 
and suitably, ^^'e may think that the making of 



garments and keeping them in repair is a thing 
to which we do not wish to become a slave. Then 
let us master this art, and when we know how, it 
will all become so easy that it will not take up so 
much of the precious time which we long to de- 
vote to other things. 



SYSTEM OF GRADING. 

The understanding of principles makes the work 
easy, hence the first thing in the course is the in- 
culcating of those principles which are the foun- 
dation of needlework. 

The first grade pupils are taught the different 
stitches used in sewing; basting, the different 
seams, hemming, patching, flannel stitches, but- 
tonholing and darning. 

For children we arrange the work somewhat 
differently, using ap open canvas for the first sam- 
pler stitches which are sewn with bright colored 
thread on a gray or brown canvas. Hemming, 
patching, darning and button holing should be 
taught as second and third grade work in chil- 
dren's classes, and for them the work should be 
kept simpler in all its grades than for older pu- 
pils. 

The aim should be to see that each step in the 
work has been so thoroughly taken that the next 
step becomes easy. If properly taught and the 
child has taken up the primary work at the age 
of six, she should be able to make her own dresses 
by the time she is fourteen. 

For older pupils the drafting and making of 
underwear should be taught in the second grade. 

The third grade pupils may be taught the draft- 
ing and making of shirt waists and cotton dresses. 



GARMENT DRAFTING 9 

The fourth grade work consists of the drafting 
and making of children's garments. After these 
steps have been taken, dressmaking may be taken 
up, and to become a finished dressmal^er requires 
from one to two years of study. 

IMPLEMENTS USED IN CUTTING AND MAK 
ING GARMENTS. 

In worlv of any kind success depends largely up- 
on the tools used and this is especially true in 
garment making. 

The first thing needful is a suitable pair of 
shears. Scissors and shears are made in various 
sizes and styles; strictly speaking, every pair over 
six inches in length should be called shears. Bent 
shears are best for cutting heavy material as they 
are so shaped as to raise the material as little as 
possible from the table. Avoid dropping your 
shears or scissors upon the floor as the concussion 
they thus sustain often loosens their adjustment 
and may cause uneven cutting. 

The next implement with which the work basket 
should be supplied is the needle. Needles have 
been used by women of every country, in every 
age. The common sewing needle is made from 
steel wire and is manufactured almost exclusively 
in England. Three kinds of needles are in use 
for ordinary sewing; they are Sharps, Ground- 
downs and Betweens. Of these Sharps are the 
longest and Betweens are the shortest. 

Grounddowns are best for school work and for 
all beginners. All needles are numbered from 1 
to 12 ; number 1 being the coarsest and number 12 
the finest. 



10 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

Always use thread the size of the warp of the 
material upon which you are working. Do uot 
use too long a thread and always cut your thread, 
never bite or break it. Use a number 8 needle 
with number 50 to TO thread and a number 10 nee- 
dle with number 80 to 100 thread. 

A small pin cushion well supplied with the best 
pins is a necessary adjunct to the work basket. 
Those made of aluminum are excellent and do not 
rust. Thimbles made of aluminum are also very 
good and do not soil or irritate the finger. 

The other articles belonging to the work box are 
a 60 inch tape line, an emery bag and a piece of 
wax. 

In all the illustrations in this volume each 
square, the sides of which measure three-six- 
teenths of an inch, represents a full inch. 



GARMENT DRAFTING 11 



TNSTEUCTIONS FOR TAKIMG MEASURES. 

First tie a cord tiglitlT around tlie waist so as 
to find correct waist line. 

The first measure taken is the neck measure and 
is taken around the fullest part of the neck. 

In taking the bust measure stand behind the 
person and measure over the fullest part of the 
bust. 

The waist measure should be taken tightly 
around the foot of the waist. 

The front measurement is taken from the cen- 
ter of back of neck to waist line in front. 

The length of back is taken from back of neck 
straight down to waist line, another back meas- 
urement is taken from the shoulder to w^aist line, 
this is sometimes called the back balance. 

The under arm measure is taken from well up 
under the arm straight down to the waist line. 

The chest measure is taken straight across the 
chest. Width of back is taken straight across 
the widest part of back. 

The shoulder measure is taken from neck to 
shoulder point. 

Dart No. 1 is measured from waist line to fullest 
part of bust. 

Dart Xo. 2 is measured one-half inch higher 
than dart No. 1. 



12 MARGARET BLAIR SYvSTEM 

SLEEVE MEASUREMENTS. 

The arm's eye measurement is taken around the 
arm just below the shoulder bone. 

The next measure is from shoukler to elbow, the 
next from elbow to wrist. The elbow measure is 
taken around elbow with elbow half bent. 

The inside measure is taken from the hollow 
of elbow to arm's eye. 

The hand measure is taken around the fullest 
part of the hand. 



14 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 























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GARMENT DRAFTING 15 



CHILD'S DRAWEES. 

To make a pair of child's drawers requires from 
one to one and one-half yards of material. Two 
measurements are taken, the first, around the 
smallest part of the waist; the second, from the 
waist line over the hip to the knee. 

First measure on fold of paper the required 
length from bottom up, then mark for the width of 
bottom one-half of band measure. 

To find seat line, measure downward from 1 
five-eights of the length to 3 ; from this point meas- 
ure out three-fourths of the length, then connect 
this point with 2 by an inward curve. 

To find width of top, measure out from 1 four- 
sevenths of band and mark, from this point meas- 
ure up two and one-half inches to 6, connect 6 with 
4 at seat line by a straight line and connect 1 and 
6 by a straight line. 

Place the pattern on the folded material having 
the bottom on a woof thread, pin and cut accord- 
ing to the pattern. Make an opening on each 
side and finish with a gusset. 



16 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



CHILD'S NIGHT GOWN. 

The measurements taken for the child's night 
gown illustrated on the opposite page and de- 
scribed below were as follows: 

Neck, 11 inches. 

Bust, 25 inches. 

Waist, 23 inches. 

Back, llf inches. 

Back balance, 10^ inches. 

Under arm, 6 inches. 

Shoulder, 4 inches. 

Chest, 10 inches. 

Width of back, 9^ inches. 

First draw a horizontal line one inch from the 
edge of paper and six inches long. 

1 is one-quarter inch from top, 2 is three inches 
from 1 and 3 is the length of yoke. Measure one 
and one quarter inches from 1 to 4. From 2 meas 
ure out seven inches to get the correct slant for 
the shoulder. Measure up one inch from 3 and 
out one-half of the width of the back to 6. 7 is the 
length of the shoulder which is obtained by con- 
necting 4 and 5 by a slanting line then measuring 
on this line from 4 the length of the shoulder. 
Connect 7 and 6 by slightly inward curve which 
is 8, and connect 3 and by an outward curve. 

For the front of the yoke draw a horizontal line 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 19 

seven inches long and measure down two inches 
to 1, from this point measure five inches to 2 then 
from top of line out one and one-half inches to 3. 
From 1 measure out eight inches to 4. Measure 
one inch above 2 out one-half of the chest meas- 
ure, this line will be 5. Draw the neck curve 6, 
then the length of the shoulder measuring from 
3 and connect the shoulder with 5 by an inward 
curve, then connect 5 with 2 hj an outward curve 
which will be 9. 

For the sleeve measure on fold of paper the 
length of inside measure, always adding three and 
one-half inches for the curve at the top. Measure 
up from 1 one-half inch to 2, then up the length of 
the inside to 3, then out the width desired and 
mark 4. Slope two and one-half inches in at the 
wrist or more if desired. Draw a curved line 6, 
beginning four inches in from the top of fold to 4; 
from 4 draw a curved line 7 to the edge of fold. 
Connect 4 and 5 with the line 8 and 1 and 5 with 
the line 9. 

Another very good pattern for a child's night 
gown is cut exactly like the child's apron on page 
21 with the exception of the neck which is 
cut like the child's Waist, on page 25. 



20 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



CHILD'S APEON. 

For the back draw a horizontal line the length 
of the paper. From 1 to 2 measure three and 
one-fourth inches; from 1 to 3 the length of back; 
from 3 to 4 the under arm measure; from 3 to 5 
the length from waist to bottom of skirt; 
6 is one and one half inches from dot- 
ted line; 7 is always seven inches from 
dotted line and marks the shoulder slant. 
8 is the width of back adding on one and one-quar- 
ter inches to bring the seam under the arm. 9 is 
the width on waist line slanting out one incl]. 
10 is the back balance. 11 is the shoulder, 12 
marks the arm's eye curve, 13 the neck curve, 14 
is the slanting line below waist line and 15 is a 
slightly curved line at the bottom. 

For the front draw a horizontal line the length 
of your paper. 1 is two inches from top of line; 
from 1 to 2 is five inches for a child, from 2 to 3 is 
the length of the under arm measure; from 3 to 4 
is the length below the waist line; 5 is two inches 
out from top of line; from 1 to 6 is always eight 
inches; from 2 to 7 is the bust line which is obtain- 
ed by subtracting the width of back from the bust 
measurement, and making the back one and one- 
quarter inches wider. This must be taken off on 
the front. 8 is the slant on the waist line; 9 is the 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 23 

chest measure and is taken one inch above the 
bust line. 

Measure off four inches on shoulder slant from 
5 and mark off two inches, this line is 10. 11 is the 
arm's eye curve from shoulder to bust line and 
touching the chest line; 12 is the neck curve from 
shoulder to two and one-quarter inches below 1. 
13 is the curve at bottom. 

Fullness at the neck may be allowed if desired. 



24 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



CHILD'S WAIST AND SLEEVE. 

The measurements taken for the waist illus- 
trated here were as given below, and the waist 
was made to fit a child 7 years old. 

Neck, 11 inches. 

Bust, 25 inches. 

Waist, 23 inches. 

Front, 14 inches. 

Back, llf inches. 

Back bal., 10^ inches. 

Under arm, 6 inches. 

Shoulder, 4 inches. 

Chest, 10 inches. 

Width back 9| inches. 

For the back draw a horizontal line one inch 
from the edge of paper. From top of line mark 
down one-quarter inch to 1, from 1 to 2 measure 
three inches, from 1 to 3 the length of back, and 
from 3 to 4 the under arm measurement. 

From 1 draw out one and one-fourth inches to 5; 
from 2 measure out six inches to 6 for slant of 
shoulder; from 4 mark out on dotted line the 
width of back to 7; from 3 to 8 the width of back 
on waist line; for each additional inch of waist 
measure add on one-eighth inch. 9 is the length 
of shoulder measured out on shoulder slant from 
5. 10 is the back balance taken from center of 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 27 

back ou waist line to shoulder point and deter- 
mines where the shoulder seam should be; 11 is 
the arm's eye curve. 

For the front, draw a horizontal line the length 
of pai^er. From top of paper mark down two 
inches to 1. From 1 to 2 is always five inches, 
and from 2 to 3 is the underarm measure. Now, 
from top of line mark out two inches to 4, from 1 
to 5 mark out eight inches to get shoulder slant. 
From 2 to (3 is the bust measure after taking off 
the width of back. 

3 to 7 is the width of waist line of front; to find 
how wide to make the front measure the back on 
waist line and subtract from the Avaist measure, 
then mark the remainder out on temporary waist 
line from 7 to 3. 

8 is the chest measure taken one inch above bust 
line; 9 is the length of shoulder from 4 out on 
shoulder slant; 10 is the arm's eye curve from 
shoulder to bust line touching chest line; 11 is the 
neck curve from 4 to one and one-quarter inch be- 
low 1; 12 is the measurement used to get correct 
waist line and is taken from center of neck to 
waist line in front. 

The measurements taken for the child's sleeve 
were as below^ and the sleeve was made for a child 
of seven. 

From shoulder to elbow, 9^ inches. 

From elbow to wrist, 6^ inches. 

Inside from arm's eye to elbow, 6 inches. 

Elbow, 8 inches. 

Hand, 6^ inches. 

First measure dowm from top of paper the 
length from shoulder to elbow to dotted line 1. 
From 1 to 2 the length from elbow to wrist; from 



28 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

2 to 3 always mark off one and one-half inches for 
slant at wrist. 

Prom 1 to 4 mark the inside measure from el- 
bow to arm's eye; from 4 to 5 always mark one 
and one-half inches for the curve of under sleeve. 
From top of line mark in four inches to 6; from 5 
measure out one-half of arm's eye less one and 
one-half inches to 7. 5 to 8 is one and one-half 
inches more than one-half of arm's eye measure. 
From 4 mark off one-half of the distance from 5 
to 7, this gives the line 4 to 9. From 1 always 
mark in one and one-half inches for curve; from 10 
mark off one-half less one inch of elbow measure 
to 11. From 10 to 12 is one inch more than one- 
half of elbow measure. Measure from 3 to 13 one- 
half inch and mark from 13 to 14 one-half of hand 
measure less one inch. From 13 to 15 one inch 
more than half of hand measure. Connect 13 and 
15 with straight line; 4 to 13 an inward curve; 
from 7 to 14 an outward curve; from 8 to 15 an 
outward curve; 4 to top of line with an outward 
curve ; 6 to 8 is an outward curve and 4 to 7 an in- 
ward curve. 

For the collar mark down one inch to 1 and out 
from top of line one-half of neck measure, then 
mark in one-half inch to 2. From 1 mark down 
one inch to 3. At the end of top line mark down 
one inch, connect 1 and 2 with an inward curve 
which is the top of the collar. Connect 2 and 4 
with a straight line which is the center of front, 
and connect 3 and 4 with an outward curve. This 
curve is joined to the neck of the dress. 



30 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 















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GARMENT DRAFTING 31 



DEAWERS. 

For a pair of drawers two to two and one-half 
yards of material, thirty-six inches wide is re- 
quired. If lace is used for trimming, one and one- 
half the width of the bottom is required, but if 
embroidery is used, but one and one-third the 
width will be needed. 

Two measurements are required for drafting- 
drawers. The first is the band measurement and 
is taken around the waist, the second is the length 
and is measured from the waist over the hip to the 
knee. 

On fold of paper measure from bottom up the 
required length and mark at 1. At bottom from 
fold of paper measure out one-half of band meas- 
ure which is the width of bottom of draw^ers and 
mark 2. For the seat line, measure down from 1 
one-half of the length to 3; from this point meas- 
ure out three-quarters of the length for width of 
seat, then connect 4 and 2 by an inward curve. 

For width of top of front, measure from 1 four- 
sevenths of the band measure to 5, from this point 
measure up two and one-half inches and mark 6, 
connect 6 with 4 by a slightly inward curve and 
connect 6 and 1 by a straight line. 

For back of drawers measure out from 5 three 
inches and mark 7, then measure from 6 up two 



32 , MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

and one-lialf iuches and out two inches to 8, con- 
nect this point with 4 by an outward curve and 
connect i and 1 by a straight line. 
, Cut the pattern by the outside pencil mark, then 
unfold the i^aper and cut the front by the pencil 
mark. Cut the band lengthwise of the material, 
make it three inches wide and the length of the 
Avaist measure, allowing one inch for lapping at 
each opening. 

To draft the yoke, first find the size of the 
square by dividing the waist measure by four, al- 
ways adding one and one-half inches for the slant 
on the hip. 

If the band measure is twenty-four inches as 
in our illustration, draft the square seven and one 
half inches. In front measure down three inches 
to 1. For very slight figures it is only necessary 
to measure down two and one-half inches from the 
front and two inches from the back. Measure out 
on square six inches to 2, then down from the 
corner two and one-half inches to 3. Measure 
down from 1 three and one-half inches to 4, con- 
nect 1 and 2 by an inward curve, connect 2 and 3 
by a straight line, 3 and 4 by a straight line and 1 
and 4 by a straight line which will be the middle 
of the front. 

For the back draft a square the same size as for 
the front and measure down two and one-half 
inches to 1, out at top of square six inches to 2 
and down from the corner two and one-half inches 
to 3, measure down from 1 three inches. Connect 
1 and 2 by an inward curve, 2 and 3 by a straight 
line and 3 and 4 by an outward curve. 

Fold the material leniithwise, the width of the 



OARMENT DRAFTING 33 

pattern from one of the edges and pin together, 
place the pattern even with the raw edge of the 
cloth and j)in firmly, cut both thicknesses by the 
back and trace the front; remove the pattern and 
cut the upper fold of cloth by the tracing; cut the 
other leg by placing the one already cut on the 
cloth with the right sides together and the bottom 
on a woof thread of the material. Make with 
felled seams and finish with oussets. 



34 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



UXDER SKIRT. 

To make a skirt about thr^e and one-half yards 
around bottom requires four and one-half yards of 
material thirty-six inches wide, and more if ruifles 
are desired. Two measurements are required for 
drafting a skirt. 

The hip measure is taken six inches below the 
waist line from the center of front to center of 
back. Length is taken in front from waist line to 
bottom of skirt allowing two inches for hem. 

On fold of paper measure down six inches to 1, 
then measure the required length and mark 2, 
measure out from 1 on hip line to 3 seven inches 
or w^hatever the hip measure may be, follow the 
corresponding figures in table given. Get width 
of bottom by following the table, then measure the 
same length on gored side and mark 5; at the top 
measure in one-half inch for curve and extend 
the curve down three inches, cut jDattern by pencil 
mark ; for most figures it is necessary to curve the 
front slightly at top, about one-half inch down 
in centre of front. 

For side gore measure down on edge of paper 
six inches to 1, then mark off the length from the 
top of paper to 2. Measure out on hip line nine 
and one-half inches, measure out from 2 the width 
of bottom to 4; measure the length on gored edge 
and mark 5, at top measure in one-half inch for 
curve, to 6, and on straight edge measure in one- 
half inch to 7. 

For the back, measure off two straight lengths 
or more if one Welshes to have the skirt wider. 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



35 





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GARMENT DRAFTING 37 



NIGHT GOWN. 

The night gown, chemise and shirt waist illus- 
trated in this Yolnme were all cut from the fol- 
lowing measurements: 

Neck 12. 

Bust 34. 

Waist 24. 

Front 19^. 

Back 16. 

Back balance 14^. 

Under Arm 8f . 

Chest 13. 

Width back 11^. 

Shoulder ^. 
Back : ' 

Draw a horizontal line seven inches long one 
inch from the edge of the paper. Always mark 
dowii one-fourth of an inch for the curve at the 
neck to 1, then from 1 measure down four inches 
to 2 and the bottom of the yoke is 3. Measure out 
from the top one and one-half inches to 4, then 
from 2 measure out eight inches to 5. Measure 
out from 3 one-half of the width of the back to 6 
and up from 6 one inch. Measure on shoulder 
slant the length of the shoulder from 4 and come 
up one-half an inch and connect 7 and 4 with very 
slight inward curve. Connect 7 with the mark an 



3S iMARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

inch above 6 with an inward curve, this line is 8, 
Then malve the curve, 9 at the bottom of joke. 

For the front, commence two inches in from the 
edge of paper and draw a \ horizontal line eight 
inches long; first mark down two inches to 1, then 
measure down six inches from 1 to 2 or the length 
of the yoke. At top of line measure out two 
inches to 3 ; from 1 measure out nine inches to get 
the slant of the shoulder; at 2 measure out the 
width of chest and come up one inch at the arm 
to 6, then connect 3 and 4 and measure on this 
line beginning at 3, the length of the shoulder 
and mark 7; now draw the neck curve, making it 
one and one-fourth inches below 1. 

For a twelve inch neck measure, make the back 
of the neck one and one-half inches and for the 
front come out two inches and down from 1, one 
and one-half inches; for every inch larger add one- 
eighth inch and for every inch smaller take off one- 
eighth. 

Connect 6 and 7 by an inward curve and 6 and 
2 by a slight outward curve. 

The measurements taken for this night gown 
sleeve were: arm's eye 12, shoulder to wrist 22, 
inside arm's-eye to wrist 17, hand 8. 

For the night gown sleeve take the inside meas- 
ure of the arm and add to it five inches for the 
curve at the top. Measure the whole length on 
fold of paj)er. 

From 1 mark up the length of inside measure to 
3, then mark from 1 up one inch to 4. Measure 
out from 4 the desired width and mark, also meas- 
ure out from 3 the width desired at top of sleeve 
and mark, from this point, draw the curve 5 to 



GARMENT DRAFTING 39 

within four and. one-half inches of 2. From the 
same point draw the curve 6 for the under part 
of the sleeve. Connect the top of sleeve with the 
wrist by a straight line 7 then finish with curved 
line 8 at bottom. 

To make the night gown hang evenly, measure 
from bust line all around the correct length. 

Overhand the gores and sew up in French seam. 

Another excellent pattern for a night gown is 
<!ut exactly like the Shirt Waist on page 51 with 
the exception of the two lines 12 which should be 
changed from curved lines to slanting lines from 
the bust line to bottom of night gown. 



40 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



CHEMISE. 

Back : — 

Draw a horizontal line two inches in from the 
edge of paper, measure down one-fourth inch from 
top line to 1, from 1 to 2 is four inches, from 3 to 
1 is the length of back to waist and from 3 to 4 
is the under arm measure. 

Now, begin at top and measure out one and 
one-half inches for neck to 5, (for a neck measure 
exceeding twelve inches see neck scale in night 
gown). From 2 to 6 always measure out eight 
inches to get the shoulder slant; from 4 to 7 is 
the width of back, adding one and three-fourth 
inches to bring the seam far enough under the 
arm as no underarm piece is used in this gar- 
ment. Connect 7 and 8 by an inward curve. 9 is the 
shoulder and is made two inches wide; 10 is the 
arm's eye curve; 11 is the neck curve from shoul- 
der to three-fourths of an inch above 2. A square 
neck may be made by following the dotted lines» 
12 is an inward curve to waist line. The dotted 
lines show the fullness allowed in the back, more 
may be allowed if desired. 

Front : — 

Draw a line three inches in from edge of paper; 
1 is two inches from top, from 1 to 2 always meas- 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 43 

ure six inches; 4 to 3 is tlie under arm measure- 
ment. For 4 measure out two inches from top of 
line (see neck scale in night gown). From 1 to 5 
alwaj^s measure nine inches for shoulder slant; 2 
to 6 is the bust line which is obtained the same 
as in corset cover, but as we have made the back 
one and three-fourths inches wider this amount 
must be taken from the front. 7 is the chest line 
taken one inch above the bust line and out one- 
half of chest measurement. 8 is the shoulder two 
inches wide; 9 is the arm's eye curve from shoul- 
der to bust line and touching chest line; 10 is the 
neck curve from shoulder to one inch above chest 
measure. The neck may be made square by fol- 
lowing the dotted lines. 



44 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



CORSET COVER. 

The following measurements were used for the 
corset cover illustrated and for all other tight fit- 
ting waists in this volume. 

Neck, 12 inches. 

Bust, 34 inches. 

Waist, 24 inches. 

Front, 19^ inches. 

Length back, 16 inches. 

Back bal., 14| inches. 

Under arm, 8f inches. 

Chest, 13 inches. 

Width back, 11^ inches. 

Shoulder, 5| inches. 

Dart No. 1, 6 inches. 

Dart No. 2, 6^ inches. 

For the back of corset cover, first draw a hori- 
zontal line the length of your paper. From 1 
measure down four and one-fourth inches to 2,then 
the length of the back from 1 to waist line 3. 
From 3 to 4 is the under arm measurement. 

Begin at the top and mark out one and one- 
half inches to 5, (see neck scale in night gown). 
From 2 to 6 always mark out eight inches to get 
the shoulder slant; from 4 to 7 measure the width 
of back, then from 7 up one inch to get the curve 
for the arm's eye. 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 47 

3 to 8 is the Avidth of waist line, for a twenty- 
four incli waist measure, make tlie back three 
and one-fourth inches for a corset cover. 

Now mark off the length of shoulder to 9, then 
draw the slant in the back which is 10. 11 is the 
back balance and determines where the shoulder 
seam come. 12 is the shoulder made two inches 
wide; 13 is an inward curve at the arm's eye and 
14 is the inward curve drawn from the inch mark 
above 7 to 8 ; 15 is an inward curve from the shoul- 
der to three-fourths of an inch above 2. The neck 
may be cut square if desired b}' following the dot- 
ted lines. 16 is a straight line extending three 
inches below the waist line and out to the main 
line. IT is an outward curve three inches down 
and slanting one inch; 18 is a slanting curve con- 
necting 16 and 17. 

To cut the front of corset-cover draw a horizon- 
tal line two inches from the edge of the j)aper. 
Measure down two inches from top to l,from 1 to 2 
is always six inches. From 2 to 3 is the length of 
the underarm measure. Measure two inches from 
top of line to 4 for twelve inch neck measure, (see 
neck scale in night gown). 

Always measure nine inches from 1 to 5 for 
shoulder slant. 2 to 6 is the bust line; to get the 
length of this line we must subtract the width of 
back from the bust measurement. The width of 
our back is eleven and one-half inches, this sub- 
tracted from thirty-four , our bust measurement, 
would leave twenty-two and one-half inches, and 
since we are making but half the front we divide 
this by two which would give us eleven and one- 
fourth. From 6 mark in two and one-half inches 



48 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

to 7 for the under arm piece. From the waist line, 
8, draw a straight line, 9, extending one inch 
above 6. 10 is the dotted line from 7 to waist 
line and on each side of this dotted line is a slight- 
ly curved line Avhich outlines the forms. 

11 is the length of shoulder and is marked out 
on shoulder slant, making the shoulder two inches 
wide. 12 is the chest measurement taken one 
inch above the bust line and out one-half of chest 
measure. 13 is the arm's eye curve from shoulder 
to bust line and touching chest line. 14 is the 
curve one-half inch in from top of line 9 to bust 
line. Now draw a curve from the one-half inch 
point, extending down two and one-half inches 
and connecting with the line 9. 15 is the neck 
curve from the shoulder to one and oije-half inches 
above chest line. 16 is the front measurement; 
17 is the first dart and is one and one half inches 
in from the front line. Always make the first dart 
smaller than the other. To find the quantity to 
put into the darts measure the back which in this 
figure is six and one-half inches, subtract this 
from the waist measure which is twenty-four, this 
leaves seventeen and one-half which, divided by 
two, makes one-half the pattern or eight and 
three-fourths inches; measure out on waist line 
eight and three-fourths inches and the quantity 
we have left on waist line is for the darts. The 
amount we have left for the darts in this figure 
is three and one-half inches, so mark off one 
and one-half inches for the first dart and two 
inches for the other, 18. Always leave a space 
of three-fourths of an inch between the darts, 
19 is the straight dart; the dart lines are curved 



GARMENT DRAFTING 49 

to the waist line and straight below, they are 
just half as large at the bottom as at the waist 
line. 20 is slightly slanted toward the back and 
is half an inch higher than the first dart. 21 is 
an outward curve, three inches down from waist 
line 8, and slanting one and one-half inches; 22 
is an outward curve three inches down and slant- 
ing one and one-fourth inches; 23 is an outward 
curve slanting three-fourths of an inch. 
Make the corset cover with felled seams. 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



SIIIET WAIST. 

For the back draw a horizontal line the length 
of your paper. Measure one-fourth of an inch 
down from dotted line to 1. Measure four inches 
from 1 to 2; from 1 to 3 is the length of back to 
waist line; from 4 to 3 is the under arm -measure 
ment. 

Begin at top and measure out one and one-half 
inches to 5 (see neck scale in night gown). Prom 
2 to 6 always measure out eight inches to get 
shoulder slant; 4 to 7 is the width of back, then we 
take one. and three-fourths inches from the front 
and add it to the back so as to bring the seam 
under the arm. After adding one and three- 
fourths inches to this line we mark up one inch 
from 7 to get the curve for arm's eye, from 3 to 8 
is the width of waist line. 

Now mark length of shoulder on shoulder slant, 
9 is back balance and determines where the shoul- 
der seam comes. 10 marks the curve on shoulder. 
Now draw curve for the neck. 

11 is the inward curve for the arm's eye, 12 is 
the slight inward curve extending to the waist 
line. 13 is an outward curve, 3 inches down and 
slanting one inch. The dotted line shows fullness 
allowed for back. 

For the front of shirt waist draw a horizontal 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



51 





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GARMENT DRAFTING 53 

line two inches from edge of paper. Measure 
down two inches from top to 1, from 1 to 2 always 
measure six inches. 

From 2 to 3 is the under arm measure. From 
top of line measure out two inches to 4 (see neck 
scale in night dress). Always measure out nine 
inches from 1 to 5, to get the shoulder slant. 

Get the bust line and under arm seam the same 
as in the chemise. 

The dotted line, 3 to 7, is our temporary waist 
line, 8 is the chest measure taken one inch above 
bust line and out one-half of chest measurement. 
9 is the length of shoulder and is drawn out on the 
shoulder slant. 10 is the inward curve from 
shoulder to bust line and touching chest line. 11 
is the neck curve from 4 to one and one-half inches 
below 1 (see neck scale in night dress). 12 is an 
inward curve from 6 to waist line; 13 is the front 
measurement; 14 is our waist line; 15 is an out- 
ward curve three inches down and slanting one 
and one-half inches. 

In making this waist use French seams for the 
sleeves and under arm seams. In putting on the 
yoke, cut the outside on the bias and the lining 
straight. Sew the front of shoulder to the lining 
of shoulder in back, then sew the outside of back 
shoulder over on the seam. In sewing in the 
sleeve the seam of sleeve should come from 2 to 
2^ inches in front of under arm seam and the full- 
est part of the gathers should come just in front of 
the shoulder seam. The Bishop or leg of mutton 
sleeve is used in the shirt waist. 

The cuff is a straight band ten inches wide and 
three inches long. The neck band is one and one- 



54 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

fourth inches wide, in sewing the band on, the 
curve is sewed to the neck curve of the dress 
Always cut the neck band lengthwise of mater- 
ial. To make the cuff always cut the lining 
lengthwise and the outside crosswise; the inter- 
lining should be of butcher's linen and should al- 
wavs be shrunk. 



56 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 57 



PLAIN WAIST. 

The same measurements were taken for this 
waist as for the corset cover. 

For the back, draw a horizontal line the length 
of paper. 1 is one-fourth of an inch from top of 
line; 2 is four inches from 1. Mark from 1 to 3 
the length of back to waist. From 4 to 3 is the 
under arm measure. Begin at the top and mark 
out one and one-half inches — this for a twelve 
inch neck measurement, see neck scale in night 
gowm — to 5. From 2 to 6 always mark out eight 
inches to get the shoulder slant, from 4 to 7 is 
the width of back, from 7 mark up one inch to get 
the curve for the arm's eye. From 3 at waist line, 
first mark off three-fourths of an inch for the 
slant in the back, then one and one-fourth inches 
for width of back at waist line, then space three- 
fourths of an inch; for the side body mark off two 
inches to 8 (this for a twenty-four inch waist meas- 
ure). Since for a twenty-four inch waist the two 
back forms together will measure three and one- 
fouth inches at waist line, allowing one and one- 
fourth inches for back and two inches for side 
body, then for each additional inch in the waist 
measurement allow one fourth of an inch, one 
eighth on back and one-eighth on side body. For 
each decreasing inch in the measurement take off 
a like amount. 



58 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

Now measure off on shoulder slant the length of 
shoulder to 9. 10 is the slant from 1 to the waist 
line; 11 is the back balance and shows where the 
shoulder seam should be; 12 is the curve of the 
shoulder; 13 is an inward curve for the arm's eye. 

For 14 draw an inward curve from the point one 
inch above 7 to 8 at waist line; 15 is an inward 
curve at the neck ; 16 is an inward curve from the 
arm's eye, one and one-fourth inches above the to'^ 
of line 14 to the second mark on waist line. 17 is 
an outward curve beginning an inch below the 
dotted line, marking the width of back, and 
drawn to the next mark on the waist line; this is 
the curve of the side body, 

18 is a slanting line three and one-half inches 
down from waist line and slanting three-fourths of 
an inch; 19 is drawn three and one-fourth inches 
and slants three-fourths of an inch; 20 is drawn 
down three and one-fourth inches and slants 
three-fourths of an inch; 21 is an outward curve, 
drawn three inches down and slants one inch. 

For the front of the waist draw a horizontal 
line two inches from the edge of the paper. Mark 
down two inches from top to 1. Always measure 
down six inches from 1 to 2. 2 to 3 draw thi 
length of the under arm measure. At top meas- 
ure out two inches to lathis for a 12 inch neck 
measure, if more, see neck scale in night gown. 

Always mark out nine inches from 1 to 5 for 
shoulder slant. From 2 to 6 is the bust line, to 
get this line subtract the width of back from bust 
measurement; the width of our back is eleven and 
one-half inches, this subtracted from thirty-four, 
our bust measurement, would leave twent^'-two 
and one-half inches and since we are making but 



GARMENT DRAFTING 59 

lialf the front we divide this by two, which would 
srive us eleven and one-fourth. From 6 mark in 
two and one-half inches to 7 for the under arm 
piece; from the waist line, 8, draw a straight line, 
9, extending one inch above 6 ; 10 is the dotted line 
from 7 to waist line; 11 is the chest measurement 
taken one inch above the bust line and out one- 
half of chest measure. 

12 is the length of shoulder; this line is marked 
out on shoulder slant five and one-half inches. 
Now make the arm's eye curve, 13, from shoulder 
to bust line and touching chest line; 14 is the curve 
one-half an inch in from top of line 9 to bust line. 
Now draw a curve from the one-half inch point, 
extending down two and one-half inches and con- 
necting with the line 9. 

15 is the neck curve from shoulder to one and 
one-half inches below 1 — see neck scale in night 
gown. 16 is the front measurement and deter- 
mines the permanent waist line. 17 is the first 
dart one and one-half inches in from front line. 
Always make the first dart smaller than the 
other. To find the quantity to put into the darts 
measure the back which in this figure is six and 
one-half inches, subtract this from the waist meas- 
ure which is twentj^-four, this leaves seventeen 
and one-half which, divided hj two makes one- 
half the pattern or eight and three-fourths inches; 
then measure out on waist line eight and three- 
fourths inches and the quantity we have left for 
the darts in this figure is three and one-half inch- 
es, so mark off one and one-half inches for the 
first one and two inches for the other, 18. Always 
leave a space of three-fourths of an inch between 
the darts. 19 is the straight dart, the dart lines 



60 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

are curved to the waist line and straight below, 
they are just half as large at the bottom as at the 
waist line. 20 is slightly slanted toward the back 
and is one-half inch higher than the first dart. 21 
is an outward curve three inches down from waist 
line, 8, and slanting one and one-half inches; 22 
is an outward curve three inches down and slant- 
ing one and one-fourth inches; 23 is an outward 
curve slanting three-fourths of an inch. 

The trfmmings needed for a plain waist are 
two yards of silesia, sewing silk, button hole twist, 
basting cotton, buttons or hooks and eyes, three 
whale bones and 4 yards of bone casings. 

Always cut your waist lining crosswise of the 
silesia. In basting the material onto the lining 
hold lining slightly full from two inches above the 
waist line to one and one-half inches below it. 

Great care must be taken to bast the seams of 
a basque according to the tracing marks; always 
begin basting at waist line, first basting up then 
from waist line downward. After the waist is 
basted try it on. 

After the seams are sewed take out the bastings, 
pare the seams, making notches at the waist line 
to allow for the curving of the dress. The under- 
arm seams may be left wider than the others so 
that the waist may be altered. 

Overcast the seams closely or if in silk, bind 
them with a narrow^ silk binding, then press open. 

In sewing the whalebone casing which should 
be single casing, hold it full; if possible soak the 
whale bone over night before using, then place in 
the seam and fasten firmly every 2 inches; sew 
through the bone in finishing. 



62 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 63 



SLEEVES. 

The measures taken for the sleeves illustrated 
here are as follows: 

Arm's eye, 12 inches. 

Shoulder to elbow, 15 inches. 

Elbow to wrist, 11 inches. 

Inside elbow to arm's eye, 9^ inches. 

Elbow, 11 inches. 

Hand, 8 inches. 

For the plain coat sleeve, first draw a horizontal 
line. From 6 to 1 is the length from shoulder to 
elbow, 1 to 2 the length from elbow to wrist. For 
3 mark up two inches from 2, 1 to 4 is the inside 
measure from elbow to arm's eye, from 4 to 5 al- 
ways mark up one and one-half inches, from 6 to 
7 mark half the arm's eye, from 5 to 8 measure out 
half of arm's eye and always add on four inches. 
From 4 to 10 measure out one-fourth of arm's eye, 
from 1 measure in two and one-half inches; from 
11 to 12 measure one-half the elbow measure less 
one inch, and for the upper piece, 11 to 13 meas- 
ure one-half the elbow measurement plus one inch. 
Our elbow measure is 11 inches then the under 
part of sleeve would be four and one-half inches 
wide and the upper side would be six and one-half 
inches in width. For wrist measure in one-half 
inch from 3 to 14 and divide the hand measure. 



64 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

eight inclies, in the same wa}^ as the elbow meas- 
ure was divided. 

For the leg of mutton sleeve mark on fold of 
paper 4 to 1 the length of shoulder to elbow plus 
one inch; 1 to 2 from elbow to wrist, from 1 to 3 
inside measure, from 4 to 5 one-half of arm's eye, 
from 3 to 6 is width of sleeve putting in the 
amount of fullness desired, from 1 to 7 is one-half 
the elbow measure and 2 to 8 is one-half the hand 
measure, slanting up one-half inch. Connect 6 
and 8 by an inward curve, for the outside curve 
at the top of sleeve connect 5 and G. Measure 
from 6 to 9 one-fourth of the arm's eye or three 
inches to get the under side of sleeve, draw a curve 
from 4 to 9 and from 9 to 6 coming one-fourth 
inch below dotted line. This is the upper and 
lower sleeve. 

The making of a sleeve is to many the most 
difficult part of a garment and yet by following a 
few rules carefull}' it is easy to make a sleeve that 
fits well. 

When making a jjlain, closely fitting sleeve (as 
the lining) it is best to test it before basting it to 
the arm's eye, to see that the seams run properly 
and that no part has been twisted. To do this 
lay the sleeve flatly upon the table or lap board 
so that the inside seams come on the upper side 
close to the inner fold at the top and if the sleeve 
be properly made all the parts will fall naturally 
into shape. See that the thread of the material 
runs straigh down from the shoulder seam. 

Now pin the sleeve to the arm's eye in such a 
way that nearly all the fullness will come in the 
upper portion and arrange the fullness so that it 



GARMENT DRAFTING 65 

will be greatest about au inch in front of the 
shoulder seam, gradually lessening it as it nears 
the seams of the sleeve. The surest guide we 
can have for deciding how to distribute the full- 
ness is to see that the thread runs downward in 
a straight line from the shoulder in all material 
in which the thread can be followed. 

Face the wrist with crinoline and finish with 
a bias piece of material or silk. 



66 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



THE FRENCH BIAS DART. 

Back. — 

First draw a horizontal line the length of paper. 
Measure down one-fourth inch from dotted line to 
1, measure four inches from 1 to 2, from 1 to 3 is 
length of back from neck to waist, 4 to 3 is the 
underarm measure. Begin at top and measure 
out one and one-half inches from 1 to 5, for twelve 
inch neck measure (see neck scale in night gown). 
From 2 to 6 always measure out eight inches to 
get shoulder slant, 4 to 7 is the width of back, 
from 7 measure out one inch to get curve for arm's 
eye. From 3 at waist line first measure out three- 
fourths inch for slant in back then three and one- 
fourth inches from that point to 8. 

Measure off on shoulder slant the length of 
shoulder 5 to 9, 10 is the slant from 1 to waist line, 
11 is the back balance and determines the point 
where the shoulder seam comes, 12 is the shoulder 
curve connecting 5 and 9, 13 is an inward curve 
for the arm's eye, 14 is an inward curve from the 
arm's eye to 8, 15 is the neck curve, 16 is a 
straight line extending three inches below the 
waist and out to the main line, 17 is an outward 
curve three inches down and slanting one and one- 
fourth inch, 18 is a straight line at the bottom. 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 69 

Front.— 

Draw a horizontal line two inches from the 
edge of paper, measure down two inches from top 
to 1, from 1 to 2 always measure down six inches, 
2 to 3 is the length of underarm measure. Meas- 
ure out two inches from top to 4 (see neck scale in 
night gown). From 1 to 5 always measure out 
nine inches for the shoulder slant, 2 to 6 is the 
bust line, (to get thi.s follow description in plain 
waist), but for the French Bias Dart add two 
or more inches on the bust line to increase the 
bias. From 6 measure in two and one-half inches 
to 7, from 7 to 8 measure off the amount added 
on bust line which in this figure is two inches. 
From 9 which is the waist line, a straight line 10 
extends up to one inch above 6, 11 is a slightly 
curved line extending from 7 to waist line, 12 is 
a slightly curved line from 8 to waist, 13 is length 
of shoulder marked out on shoulder slant five and 
one-half inches, 11 is the chest measure one inch 
above the bust line, and out one-half of chest meas- 
urement, 15 is the arm's eye curve from shoulder 
to bust line and touching chest line; 16 is a curve 
starting one-half inch in from top of line 10 and 
extending to 7; from the curve 16 another curve 
extends down two and one-half inches and joins 
line 10. 17 is the neck curve from shoulder to 
one and one-half inches below 1 this for a twelve 
inch neck measure. 19 is the first dart 
(always make the first dart smaller than 
the other) one and one-half inches in from 
front line. To find the quantity to put in 
the darts measure the back which in this figure is 
six and one-half inches, subtract this from the 



70 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

waist measure wliieli is twenty-four iuclies, this 
leaves seventeen and one-half inches, divide this 
by two as we are making but one-half the pattern, 
then measure out eight and three-fourths inches 
on waist line and the quantity left on this line is 
the quantity we have to put in the darts. In this 
figure we have five and one-half inches for the 
darts, we measure off one and one-half inches for 
the first dart and four inches for the other which 
in the illustration is marked 20. Always leave 
three-fourths of an inch between the darts, 21 is 
the center of the first dart, the outlines to the 
waist are curved but straight below and one-half 
as large at bottom as at waist. 22 marks the 
center of the second dart which extends one-half 
inch higher than the first, 23 is an outward 
curve extending down three inches and slanting 
one and one-half inches, 24 is an outward curve 
extending down three inches and slaiiting one 
and one-fourth inch, 25 is an outward curve slant- 
ing three-fourths inch. 



72 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 73 



THE SEAMLESS WAIST. 

To make a seamless waist first draft a French 
back, then draft a plain front, instead of putting 
in darts take off one-half the quantity usually 
used in darts, in front from bust line to waist line 
and the other half from back seam slanting in 
from bust line to waist line. Cut out this front 
and connect with French back, this brings the 
front on the bias, cut your pattern and place on 
fold of cloth. The seamless waist makes a good 
corset cover by adding a three inch ripple at bot- 
tom. 



74 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



PRINCESS DEESS. 
Back. — 

First draw a line the length of paper, measure 
down one-fourth inch from dotted line to 1. From 

I to 2 measure four inches, from 1 to 3 measure 
the length of back to waist, 4 to 3 is the underarm 
measure. 

Begin at top and measure out one and one-half 
inches to 5, this for a twelve inch neck measure 
(see neck scale in night gown). From 2 to 6 al- 
ways measure out eight inches to get the shoul- 
der slant. From 3 on waist line first measure off 
three-fourths of an inch, mark, then one and one- 
fourth inches for back and mark, leave a space 
one and three-fourths inches wide then measure 
off two inches for side bod^^ and mark 8. 

Measure off length of shoulder on shoulder slant 
from 5 to 9, 10 is the slant from 1 to waist line, 

II is the back balance and determines the place 
where the shoulder seam should be, 12 is the 
shoulder curve, 13 is an inward curve for the arm's 
eye, 14 is an inward curve from arm's eye to waist 
line, 15 is the neck curve, 16 is the arm's eye curve 
on side bod}', 17 is a slightly curved line from an 
inch above 7 to 8, 18 is side body curve from arm's 
eye to waist line, 19 is a straight line extending 
below waist line and slanting as illustrated, 20 
is a curved line extending below waist, 21 and 22 
are also slight curves and extend well below waist 
line. 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 77 

Front. — 

For the front draw a straight line two inches 
from the edge of paper, measure down two inches 
from top to 1, from 1 to 2 always measure down 
six inches, from 2 to 3 measure the length of un- 
derarm. Begin at top and measure out two inch- 
es to 4 (see neck scale in night gown). From 1 
measure out nine inches to 5 for shoulder slant, 2 
to 6 is the bust line to get which see description 
of Plain Waist, but for the Princess Dress add 
two inches to the bust line, these two inches are 
used in the under arm dart. From 6 measure in 
two and one-half inches to 7 and from 7 two inch- 
es to 8. 9 is the same distance from front as 6, 
from 9 to 10 measure two and one-half inches and 
from 10 to 11 measure two inches, 12 is the 
straight line extending from 9 at waist line to one 
inch above 6 and curving in one-half inch at top, 

13 is a slightly curved line connecting 7 with 10, 

14 connects 8 with 11, 15 is length of shoulder 
measured on shoulder slant from 4, 16 is the chest 
measurement and is taken one inch above bust 
line and out one-half of chest measure, 17 is the 
arm's eye curve from shoulder to bust line and 
touching chest line, 18 is a curve from top of line 
12 to 7, 19 is the neck curve from 4 to one and 
one-half inches below 1, 20 is the front measure- 
ment, 21 is the first dart, 22 the second (to get 
size of darts see description of them in Plain 
Waist.) 23 marks the straight line in center of 
first dart and 24 marks the second which is slight- 
ly slanting. 25 is a curved line extending below 
waist, 26 is a curved line slanting three-fourths of 
an inch and 27 is a curve slanting one and one- 
fourth inches. 



^8 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



JACKET. 

For the back draw a horizontal line the length 
of paper, measure down oue-fonrth of an inch 
from dotted line to 1, from 1 to 2 measure four 
inches, from 1 to 3 mark length of back to waist, 
from 4 to 3 is the underarm measure. Begin at 
top and measure one and one-half inches out from 
1 to 5 for a twelve inch neck measure (see neck 
scale in night gown). From 2 to 6 always meas- 
ure out eight inches to get the shoulder slant, 4 
to 7 is the width of back, measure up one inch to 
get curve for arm's eye. From 3 on waist line, 
measure off three-fourths inch for slant in back, 
then one and one-half inches for the back, then 
space three-fourths of an inch, and for side body 
measure off two and one-fourth inches for a 
twenty-four inch waist measure, (if more see plain 
waist). Measure off on shoulder slant the length 
of shoulder from 5 to 9, 10 is the slant from 1 to 
waist line, 11 is the back balance and determines 
where the shoulder seam should come, 12 is the 
shoulder curve, 13 is an inward curve for the 
arm's eye, 14 is an inward curve from the arm's 
eye to 8 at waist line, 15 is an inward curve at 
the neck, 16 is an inward curve from the arm's 
eye one and one-fourth inches above the top of 
line 14 to the one and one-half inch mark on waist 



GARMENT DRAFTING 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 81 

line, 17 is an outward curve beginning one inch 
below the dotted line marking width of back, ex- 
tends to the next mark on waist line and marks 
the curve of side body. 18 is a slanting line extend 
ing five inches down from waist line and slant- 
ing outward three-fourths inch, 19 extends down 
five inches and slants three-fourths inch, 20 ex- 
tends down five inches and slants one and one- 
fourth inches, 21 is an outward curve, extending 
down five inches and out one and one-half inches. 
For the front of Jacket draw a horizontal line 
two inches from the edge of paper, measure down 
two inches from top and mark 1, from 1 to 2 is 
always six inches, 2 to 3 is the length of under 
arm measure. Measure out two inches from top 
of line to 4 (if more than twelve inches neck meas- 
ure see neck scale in night gown). From 1 to 5 
measure out nine inches for shoulder slant, 2 to 
6 is the bust line, (to get bust line follow descrij)- 
tion given in Plain Waist), measure in three inch- 
es from 6 to 7 for under arm piece. From one 
inch above 6 to the waist line 8 is a straight line 
9, 10 is the dotted line from 7 to waist line, 11 is 
the chest measurement and is taken one inch 
above the bust line and out one-half of chest meas- 
urement. 12 is the length of shoulder and is 
measured out on shoulder slant from 4, 13 is the 
arm's eye curve from shoulder to bust line, touch- 
ing chest line, 14 is the neck curve from shoulder 
to one and one-half inch below 1 (see neck scale 
in night gown). 15 is the front measurement, 10 
is the waist line, 17 is an outward curve extend- 
ing five inches below the waist line and slanting 
two inches, 18 is a curved line slanting two inch- 
es, 19 is a curved line slanting one inch. 



82 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

The illustration shows a double-breasted effect 
and a dotted line shows a coat collar. In the sep- 
arate cut of collar 1 is the center of back cut on 
the bias, 4 and 5 come next to the neck of jacket, 
2 is the edge which is turned down and 3 is the 
front of collar. 



GARMENT DRAFTING 83 



DRESS SKIRT. 

To make a skirt of the present style four lengths 
of material are required. 

Three measurements are taken. — Band tightly 
around waist, hip measure taken six inches below 
waist from center of front to center of back and 
length from waist to floor which allows for mak- 
ing. The skirt described here is for a twenty- 
four inch waist, hip nineteen and length forty 
inches. For the front mark down on fold of pa- 
per one-half inch, from this point measure down 
six inches, which is the hip line and measure the 
length from first mark. 

Then measure out from top of fold four and 
one-half inches; on hip line measure out six and 
one-half inches, and at the bottom measure out 
twelve inches from fold. 

Draw a curved line from the mark at the top to 
mark on hip line and a straight line down to the 
twelve inch mark at bottom, on this edge meas- 
ure the same length as on the fold, curve the bot- 
tom by connecting the two points, draw a curved 
line at the top and cut by pencil marks. For the 
side gore mark down on the edge of paper one 
inch, from this mark measure down six inches 
for hip line then the length from first mark. At 
top of paper mark out five inches, on hip line 



84 MARGARET RLATR SYSTEM 

measure out eight inches and at the bottom eight- 
een inches. From the five inch marlv at top draw 
a curved line to mark on hip line and a straight 
line from this point to the eighteen inch mark at 
bottom. On straight edge at top curve off one- 
half inch, draw tlie curve at top from the one inch 
mark to five inch mark, measure the length down 
on gored edge and mark, make a curved line at 
bottom and cut by pencil marks. 

For side gore No. 2, first mark down one and 
one-half inch on edge of paper, from this mark 
measure the length, at the top mark out three 
inches, from this point measure out eight inches 
and at bottom measure out twenty-two inches. 
Connect this point with mark at top by a straight 
line, measure the length on this edge and mark, 
draw the curve at the top. From the three inch 
mark at top curve slightly about six inches down 
then from this on a straight line to edge of paper 
at bottom. Draw a curved line at bottom. 

For the back gore, mark dovrn on fold of pa^ 
per one-half inch, then the length. From fold at 
top measure out four and one-half inches and at 
bottom measure out fifteen inches, draw the curve 
at top. Connect the points on gored edge with a 
straight line and measure length on this line. 
Then draw curve at bottom. 

This skirt when finished is about four and one- 
half yards around the bottom. 

In making a dress skirt see that you have 
plenty of material for it will not do to piece the 
material crosswise. 

For the lining, if of silk, ten yards is required, of 
percaline five and one-half yards or eight yards of 



GARMENT DRAFTING 85 

cambric. Double the lining crosswise, lay pat- 
tern on and pin firmly. After cutting lining lay 
the interlining on it (if the interlining is of hair 
cloth it should always be shrunk before using). 

Cut the interlining from four to five inches wide, 
baste interlining on lining and stit.ch at the top of 
interlining, (if of haircloth it must be bound at 
the top. 

Now lay material on the table place lining on 
it with interlining between, smooth the material 
carefully from top toward bottom. First baste 
through the center always beginning at top ; baste 
top and sides and so on until all the gores are 
basted. Baste the gores together always begin- 
ning at the top. Try on the skirt to see that it 
fits nicely around the hips; if darts are needed 
make them in lining and stretch material over 
them. When stitching the seams always begin at 
the top. Pull the basting threads out of the 
seams and press thoroughly. Now make the belt 
which should be of silk or some firm lining mater- 
ial; cut it on the bias two and one-half inches 
wide and the length of waist measure, adding one 
and one-half inch for making. Now take a strong 
cord, (wrapping cord will do) double it and twist, 
fold your belt in center, lengthwise, run the cord 
through and stitch on the machine, turn the ends 
in nicely and overhand. Before putting belt on 
overcast around the top of skirt and seams. To 
put the belt on the skirt find the centre of front 
gore and begin there; always hold the skirt next 
you and slightly full. When you have basted the 
belt on try on the skirt to see that it hangs evenly 
all round the bottom. When it hangs evenly 



86 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

overcast the bottom and baste the velveteen on. 
Now stitch the belt where it was basted and hem 
down nicely on the right side of skirt. 

For fastening skirt belt use a large hook and 
eye in the back of the belt, sew on three eyes to 
fasten to waist and two loops to hang the skirt 
up by. 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 





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GARMENT DRAFTING 89 



BOY'S SAILOR WAIST AND COLLAR. 

Take measurements as for child's dress waist 
omitting back balance and front measure. 

For the back begin one inch in from edge of 
paper and draw a straight line, measure down 
one-fourth of an inch from top of line to .1, 
from 1 to 2 always measure three inches, 1 to 3 
is length of back to waist line, 3 to 4 is the under 
arm measure. 

Begin at top and measure out one and one-half 
inches from top to 5, from 2 to 6 always measure 
seven inches to get shoulder slant, 4 to 7 is the 
width of back adding on one and one-half inches, 
3 to 8 is the waist line, the slanting line comes 
one and one-fourth inches from 8. 5 to 9 is length 
of shoulder coming up one-half inch from shoulder 
slant, 10 is the shoulder curve, 11 is the neck 
curve, 12 is the arm's eye curve, 13 is a straight 
line extending from arm's eye to bottom and 
slanting two and one-fourth inches, 14 is the curve 
at bottom which is five inches below the waist 
line. 

For the front draw a straight line two inches 
from edge of paper, measure down two inches 
from top of line to 1, from 1 to 2 measure four 
and one-half inches, 2 to 3 is the length of under 
arm measure. From top of line measure out two 



90 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 

inches to 4, measure out eight inches from 1 to 5 
to get shoulder slant, 6 is the bust line meas- 
ured out from 2 and taking off the amount added 
to width of back, 3 to 7 is the width on waist line, 
8 is the length of shoulder, measured out on shoul- 
der slant from 4, 9 is the width of chest taken 
one inch above bust line and out one-half of chest 
measure, 10 is the arm's eye curve from 8 to bust 
line and touching chest line, 11 is the neck curve 
from 4 to one and one-fourth inches below 1, 12 is 
the slanting line extending from 6 to five inches 
below waist line, 13 the slightly curved line at 
bottom. 

For the neck band mark off one-half of neck 
measure and make it one and one-fourth inches in 
width. The dotted line 1 is the center of back, 2 
is the edge of band which is sewed on to the neck 
of waist and is slightly curved in front, 3 is the 
curved edge in front and 4 is the top which is 
straight. Cut the band lengthwise of material. 

For the Sailor Collar mark off on fold of paper 
eight and one-fourth inches which is the dotted 
line 1 and marks the center of back. 2 is the bot- 
tom of collar in back and is very slightly curved, 
3 is straight line slanting one-half inch, 4 is edge 
in front slanting one and one-half inches, 5 is the 
neck curve. 

This collar may be made to come to a point in 
front by following the dotted lines. 



92 



MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM 



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GARMENT DRAFTING 93 



BOY'S SLEEVE. 

This sleeve is for a boy five or six years of age. 
From 1 to 2 measure off four inclies, from 2 to 3 
is the inside sleeve measure, from 2 to 4 is one- 
half width of sleeve at arm's eye, from 3 to 5 is 
width of sleeve at wrist allowing for fullness 
which is gathered into the band or cuff. By con- 
necting 1 and 4 by an outward curve and also by 
an inward curve you have both the upper and 
lower part of the sleeve. The dotted lines show 
the facing and cuff. Cut the sleeve on fold of 
material. 

BOYS PANTS. 

These pants are for a boy six years of age. 

Front. — 

From 1 to 2 measure up one-fourth inch on hip 
line, 2 to 3 is the length of leg, 2 to 4 is the width 
at knee, 3 to 5 width on seat line, from waist on 
dotted line 6 measure up one-half inch and connect 
with hip by slanting line; from hip to 1 draw a 
slightly outward curve; from 6 to 5 draw an in- 
ward curve and connect 5 and 4 by a straight 
line. 

Back. — 

Draw a slanting line on hip line the length of 
pants to 1, from 1 to 2 measure up one-half inch. 

2 to 3 is the length of leg, 2 to 4 is width of knee, 

3 to 5 width on seat line, dotted line 6 is the band 
measure, from 6 to 7 measure up three inches to 
get the length of seat in back. 



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